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#9 2010-03-27 13:42:42

Papang
Member
From: Cancun, Q. Roo/Mexico
Registered: 2009-10-26
Posts: 34

Re: Phosphor 2010 Mexico

I bought an acrylic “menú holder” which measures 25cm X 32 cm.

DSCI000111.jpg

It cost me $5.00usd. What for you might ask? Well, since I am going to experiment with spray can art, with the holder I can stick in something that I consider half-way decent. Further on down the road when I make something better, it would just be a case of swapping the paintings!  If I had painted the art on the side of the case, if I made the same decision, this would imply scrapping off and ruining the paint on that side inorder to put on something new!
Now on to the paint:
DSCI00026.jpg

This i show the inside half looked painted green. I has 3 layers of gray primer which was sanded down. Then 2 layer of white and over this 3 layers of green. Finally all was covered again with 2 layers of transparent.  As this was 10 layers altogether and I didn’t want to wait 10 days for the paint to cure, I threw it into the paint oven. Letting it sit overnight is enough to continue working on it without gauging the paint.

DSCI00056.jpg

Painting the other half (the exterior) with purple, I got puckering and cracking! It already had 3 layers of sanded down primer and 2 of white. I figure that since I took too long on the other half, I let too much time pass (around an hour) and when I shot the purple, it reacted. Sigh…. I had to do this:

DSCI00049.jpg

TIP: If you are going to take more tan 20-30 min. for the next coat, it is better to wait 24 hours so that the paint underneath will harden. I should have waited with this half even if I had to wait 10-20 min. between coats. I lost time (about 2 hours) and paint (around 1 can) plus and hours scraping off and sanding the old crud.
The next day I started to lay the purple and THE PAINT STARTED TO RUN! This had not happened with the green paint, even respecting the run time between coats. I spread the runs as best as I could with a brush dipped in mineral spirits and popped it immediately into the oven to set the paint.

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The only thing I can figure is that it was either a bad batch or old paint because it ran like some of the cheapo brands that I have tried out and discarded.

Meanwhile I stepped over to decorating  the psu box.

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Here a partial of the thin slats to be finished with a couple of thick acrylic sandwiches:

DSCI00094.jpg

Oh, my poor fingers!
I finally received the pair of laptop cooling fans, one of those that will go on the removable cover:

DSCI00122.jpg

The first impression of these fans are: they are made with a really thin 2mm acrylic, the motor windings are fit for a toy, and since I did not want the fan to push air upward (toward the laptop bottom) but downward (inside the case), I would have to mod the fan in order to invert it. Of course it cost me less than half of what a 200mm Cooler Master fan would have cost, if I could just find them (there are none to be had via internet in the whole country). Also the ring that surrounds the fan is 19 cms wide but the fan blades themselves are only 17 cms.  wide which means less air circulation. Sigh… the only thing worthwhile is the leds and that it runs off  5 v.

M de O Usado:  14 horas
$ Invertido : $240 (2 fans, only one will count here), 65 (menu holder), 85 (1 can of Aluprimer primer), 35 (more acrylic scrap)=$305mn=$23.46usd.

--------------------------
Acc. M de O:  68 horas
Acc $ Usado:  $869mn=$66.84usd

Cheers and Saludos


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2010-03-27 13:42:42

dremel
pcModz Bot
Registered: 2015-04-29
Posts: 8

Re: Phosphor 2010 Mexico



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#10 2010-03-27 13:43:58

Papang
Member
From: Cancun, Q. Roo/Mexico
Registered: 2009-10-26
Posts: 34

Re: Phosphor 2010 Mexico

What I thought was going to be a piece of cake turned out taking me the better part of a day to solve:  inverting the fan flow.  First to take the fan off the base which was as easy as taking off a sticker and a couple of tiny screws.

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Since it was not made to invert the fan flow, I had to “mod” it to resolve it.  I first had to make a base in order to fix the fan to this when I inverted it.

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Bending a strip of acrylic to fit the fan ring.

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Here you can better see what was done. The center is thin acrylic taken from a cd jewel case (2mm?) so that I could use the same 2 tiny screws that I had previously taken off the fan.  At the ends are strips of 6mm thick acrylic so as to raise the blades so that they would not scrape the fan guard.

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Here the fan assembled. See what I am getting at?
Now to separate the fan from the the base plate.

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How it looks hot melted temporarily.
I finally found a can of self etching primer which is Aluprimer from Comex and I painted the outside of the case to make the paint more resistant.

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While the primer dried, I cut the side panel for the fan. I started with the Dremel but after chewing through 2 disks and cutting around 8 in., I decided to use a sheet metal scissor for round cuts, my cutting tool before the Dremel.  It is a little more laborious requiring 2 passes, a rough cut and then a second pass close to the marks.  I then used the Dremel to give some final passes and then a metal file to finish it and take off burrs.

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Finishing with the fan, I remembered a comment from JYMMY4 , a forum mate over here,  that if I was planning on covering up the venting slots which I decided to do as they no longer were going to work.

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I first used a type of Bondo to fill the slits. This type of filler requires a perfect mixture of the paste with the catalyst until the mixture has a uniform color (the red catalyst makes the mix from pink to lilac) and is applied with a rubber wedge, the excess is removed with something sharp and finally an air dried automotive filler is used to leave the surface as smooth as possible before sanding.

UGHHH, BIG SCREW UP IS WHAT! Like I had mentioned the sheet metal is very thin and the slits where stamped into the panel.  Due to this the whole venting area is distorted and I am on my 5th pass with the last filler and I cannot get it right!  Even with 100 passes I don’t think I can get a smooth finish. Thinking it over, I should have left the vents as is, filling them in from the back with something like silicon. Too bad now, I can’t reverse the process without messing it up more, sigh…..

By the way, I laid down the paint and transparent  to the outside of the case as was requested and the Comex (local paint co.) equivalent is called “Calafia” which turns out to be a metallic purple. However, when this paint dries, it is semi-flat.

DSCI000113.jpg

But laying a couple of hands of transparent leaves it shiny and this is the result:

DSCI00027.jpg
This not being a glossy color, the finish will not have that deep gloss that I like on my cases that I mod, even if I apply more hands. So, I cannot recommend this line of paint for modding unless it is the only thing you can lay your hands on.

Man Hours Used:  29 hours
$ Invested: $42.00mn for filler + $85 for a can of Aluprimer= $127.00mn or $9.76 usd.
------------------
Acc. Man Hours: 97 hours
Acc. $ Spent: $996.00mn or $76.60 usd

Saludos and Cheers


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#11 2010-03-27 13:45:09

Papang
Member
From: Cancun, Q. Roo/Mexico
Registered: 2009-10-26
Posts: 34

Re: Phosphor 2010 Mexico

While the painted parts were drying, it was time for the psu.  This would be an “Austin” brand (apparently made by the FSP Group-very heavy and quality parts) psu that was powering an Athlon XP +2800 with an ATI 9600 vid card. It has an output of 350 w. and never gave me any problems.  I would consider it of medium quality like the Fortrons or Top Powers and weighs far more than the busted generic  500 w. psu I am using for size fitting. Also the single fan that it had has ball bearings (Globe brand, good stuff) and is still pretty quiet so it should hold up another while.  Another  thing  was that it was partially sleeved with blue sleeving  and black tubing, not the green or purple requested but it doesn’t  look that bad. The only minus was that the mobo connector had 20 pins and I opted to use an adapter to get to the 24 pins asked for on the mobo. I know that a lot of mobos  still work with 20 pin connectors but it will be safer to use the adapter since I had one sitting there so lets put it to good use, hehe.
I know that it is old and a little underpowered but as I was thinking of putting in my Zotac mini-Itx mobo which is pretty lean on power consumption, I went ahead.  Now I had my first inconvenience: the cables exited the opposite side that I needed (left instead of right like the great majority). Oh well…..

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In other words, the cables were going  to bump into the psu case window.  If I flipped it around, the rear of the psu would look like this:

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Soooo, now to mod the psu! Checking my junked psus (I don’t throw them away right away), I found one with the right disposition. The only thing that I had to do was pass the pcb from one box to another, right? The problem was that I had to invert the pcb so that it would fit like it should.

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This implied I had to stretch cables in the new box.

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The change also requiered a new window as the psu had leds inside it.
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and since the new box did not have insulation, I cut some out of a cake box.
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Remember this is an old psu and it looked almost like it was soldered by hand with long wire tails to the pcb. This would surely touch the box floor causing a short without the insulation.  Nowadays this is a thing of the past with soldering that has no wire tails, just a bunch of nubs underneath the pcb.

(Continued)


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#12 2010-04-03 15:47:09

Papang
Member
From: Cancun, Q. Roo/Mexico
Registered: 2009-10-26
Posts: 34

Re: Phosphor 2010 Mexico

Well, as it turned out, I had to rework several things that did not work out, hehe. Upon trying to stick my psu into the case, the acrylic shell I riveted to the the case would not let the psu slip in. I had to force it to get in and I did not try to insist so that I would not scratch the paint and acrylic doing so.  BTW, this is how the psu turned out.

DSCI0007a.jpg

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And the damn pcb would not sit evenly once screwed in. This was the culprit:

DSCI0001a.jpg

It was the plastic stand off that most psu pcbs have in the middle.  As you can see the white one (original) was higher than the pcb of the box that I swapped.  Changing the standoff, the pcb could be screwed in without wobbling so pay attention to these details when swapping pcbs if psu (Tip).

Getting back to the beginning, I decided that the psu WOULD NOT fit in the case as it should and had to enter the case from the outside.  Sooo, the external step had to go.

DSCI0010a.jpg

Since the acrylic was thick, when I flattened the step, the whole edge got screwed up so I chunked it away.

DSCI0012a.jpg

As a suggestion, thick acrylic (more than 5mm) FORGET  about trying to straighten it, it is best just to make a new one, like I did.

I m trying to invent something removable so that the psu can be installed from the outside, so I will report what I come out with later on.

What I did finish was the side cover with the 190mm led fan:

DSCI0004a.jpg

DSCI0005a.jpg


It looks sort of plain, even with the fan in place. I am open to suggestions!
I got around to the electricals so I began to assemble and test the light kit (it is supposed to sparkle).

DSCI0015a.jpg

DSCI0017a.jpg


Her I only connected 4 of the 8 leds due to a lack of more connections but apparently it works as advertised more or less. One pair lights, then turns off while the other pair lights up.  Now to see how I distribute the 8 leds.  I will probably end up changing the color of leds but I am not too sure right now, hmmmm.

I adapted the notebook hdd in its tray, ready for the final assembly.

DSCI0019a.jpg

and working on an idea for the psu.

DSCI0021a.jpg

As it was my wife's birthday, I bought a pot plant and the lilacs match the cases color!

DSCI0014a.jpg

So much for the moment.

Man Hours Used: 21 hours
$ Invested: -0-
---------------

Acc. Hours: 118 hours
Acc $: $996mn=$76.06usd

Saludos and Cheers


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#13 2010-04-03 15:48:31

Papang
Member
From: Cancun, Q. Roo/Mexico
Registered: 2009-10-26
Posts: 34

Re: Phosphor 2010 Mexico

Almost a whole week gone by without any major advances, redoing a bunch of things, blehh!. Lets go by parts.

POWER SOURCE/SUPPLY)

Although the psu has 3 internal ub leds due to the pcb being placed in backwards, a lot of the light was obstructed by stuff like the capacitors (large). To improve the reflectance, I put a metallic finish Contac to the inside of the psu case and I figure I doubled the light emitance.

DSCI000312.jpg

I decorated the psu acrylic cover with a printed acrylic sheet from an old keyboard which was later thrown out.

DSCI00136.jpg

DSCI00153.jpg

LIGHTING ON THE FRONT CASE COVER)

I lost a lot of time here seeing the lighting effects from various sources and alternatives: with an 80mm uv led fan, a bar with red leds down the middle of the grills, white leds on the bar, etc. I finally decided to drill and hot glue the grill bases and put orange leds which gave off the best effect.

DSCI00058.jpg

DSCI00067.jpg

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BLINKING LED KIT)

This cruddy light kit DOES NOT WORK OFF OF 12V! (TIP) . It is made for a 9v. And works best at this voltage. However on the Steren forum site, I was advised to just change the resistors for the leds in order to use 12v. but the leds would not twinkle just staying permanently on.  I experimented with several resistors first 180 ohms, then 270 and I ended up going back to the original 10 ohms resistors that came with the kit, but this time connected to 7.5 v.  You know how, do you not? The ground black wire goes to the red 5v connector on the molex and the other to the yellow one, thus getting 7.5 v. in the process. Fortunately it worked albeit a little dimmer than when using the recommended 9v.  So forget about using 12v! (TIP)
I spent the better part of the week figuring this out, bah! :smils4:

DSCI0015a-1.jpg

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I made a small box for the kit pcb from styrene, bent it with a 1220w hair dryer and glued with pvc glue.

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I will owe you a vid of the kit working when I finish, hehe.

SIDE GRILL)

Since the psu acrylic shield looked sort of lonely, I decided to put something in front of it. It was the same as the other grills except with another set of spacers between the fins. It was threaded and screwed to the side of the case.

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LIGHTING THE TOP WINDOW)

In order to more or less follow the lighting theme from the front center acrylic, I made a similar bar from scratch.

DSCI00213.jpg

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OTHER STUFF)

I did not take the pics, but I made an acrylic sandwich of smoke-orange-smoked acrylic and made a 45° cut along one edge. I am not too sure how I am going to use it, hehe.

DSCI00142.jpg

And I found a plastic toy egg I found at the mall. Some kid took out the toy it had and threw the egg away. I am pretty sure I can use it somewhere, haha.

DSCI000412.jpg

.
Made a mock up/test of the lights that the case had except for the blinking leds.

DSCI0026.jpg


Saludos and Cheers


Man Hours Used: 21 hours
$ Invested: -0-
-------------
Acc. Hours: 139 hours
Acc. $: $996mn=$76.06usd


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#14 2010-04-03 15:50:15

Papang
Member
From: Cancun, Q. Roo/Mexico
Registered: 2009-10-26
Posts: 34

Re: Phosphor 2010 Mexico

THE PSU)

DSCI000117.jpg

I thought that I was over this but I noticed something weird. The glue I used had etched the plastic to the point of it being noticeable.  Darn, another frikkin cover-the third!
Anyways, I had to take apart the mess again so I added another window to the psu case so that I could get a bit more light out of it on the “gull wing” part of the shell.

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Of course, with a lot of care because it was painted and this how the shell came out:

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CHERUB OR COMET?)

Remember the plastic egg?  I made a tail for it...

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If my wife lets me, I will put 3 flashing leds to light up the dome which is transluscent (the case is for her).


She wants this (ugghh):

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Well, the customer is always right....

MENU HOLDER)

I double side taped the menu holder onto the case and turned the house upside down to find something to put inside it. It measures 30 X 24 cms and the only thing I could find was my sons Tae Kwan Do black belt certificate.

DSCI0027.jpg

I was going to use pop rivets but double sided tape did the job. I will be messing around with spray paint art in order to fill the holder. Wish me luck, it will be my first, hehe.

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It will have on it “NMC 1st Anniversary” in a strategic place.

LIGHT STRIP ON CASE TOP)

I dressed up the strip with bits and pieces of acrylic and did this:

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Gluing with chloroform (I FINALLY layed my hands on some)

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Shaping with a file and sandpaper, I fit it flush with the acrylic underneath.

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CASE FEET)

Taking the previously made sandwich strip:

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I decided on a less conventional shape and lay out.

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.
What I did not like is that the orange lost all of its phosphorescence once glued and an inordinate amount of light was necessary to just barely light it.

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I fixed it with another layer of acrylic, transparent this time.

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I assembled a 5 led holder from an old 3 led holder that burned out.

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All assembled.

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This is what it would look with the minimal-always on lights. All others are switched off.

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SWITCHES)

To turn off and on the extra lights.

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And finally to make the center of the fan look better.

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The medallion will have a sticker like this one:

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it will say “Phosphor”. Some pics of general view of what I have up to now.

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Saludos and Cheers

19/Mzo/10:

Man Hours:  24 h.
$ Inv.:  $50mn for 100m.l of chloroform=$3.85 usd
------------------
Acc. Man Hours: 163 h.
Acc. $: $1,040mn=$79.90usd


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#15 2010-04-03 15:51:34

Papang
Member
From: Cancun, Q. Roo/Mexico
Registered: 2009-10-26
Posts: 34

Re: Phosphor 2010 Mexico

On the way to the end, there are only a few details left. Yes, I still have visits so I am still pinching time from where and whenever I can.

FINAL TOUCHES TO SIDE PANEL)

Considere que la tapa lateral con el ventilador grande era medio "medio sencillo", asi que me propuse hacerle una "pestaña" de acrílico:
I felt that the fan side panel was a little "plain" so I proceeded to make a "brow" out of acrylic:

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En la ultima foto, pegue el naranja a una base de acrílico ahumado. El resultado es que al pegar el fosforescente al ahumado MATA totalmente la emanación de luz por las orillas.  Me lleva el tren!  Rápido separe los dos y deje secar el cloroformo de ambas superficies. Lije y pulí las superficies para dejarlos como estaban. Solución: atornillarlos junto y así funciona la fosforescencia! (TIP).
In the last pic, I glued the orange to a smoked base. What resulted was the phosphorescence of the the orange part was TOTALLY KILLED. Oh crap! I separated the two parts as fast as I could and sanded and polished them back to more or less as they were. Solution: SCREW the orange to the smoked and that way the phosphorescence works! (TIP)

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Ahora a darle algo mas de "vista" a la pieza.
Now to dress up the part .

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Una capa de pintura tipo cromo al acrílico humo para que refleje el naranja mejor.
A layer of chrome paint over the smoked layer so that it will reflect light through the orange better.

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En la parte inferior va un sticker PBR, tan pronto me reparen mi impresora, jeje.
The lower space below the brow is reserved for the PBR sticker as soon as they repair my printer which has been screwed up since the Coolermaster contest, hehe.

PaPangNMCLogo01.jpg



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LIGHTING UP THE FACTORY HS FAN)

Por no tener algun ventilador con leds que le quede al disipador de bajo perfil que pide el espacio interior, decidí ponerle un "led puck" (Puk de leds) encima del venti de fabrica del disipador de fabrica con que vino el procesador (Celeron E3300 dual core). Luego pinte el ventilador un color claro gris (era negro) y un poco de funda verde a los alambres.
Since I do not have an adequate led fan for the stock hs which is round (cool and functional but not very modable) nor do I have a low profile hs with led fan, I decided on a "led puck" placed on top of the factory fan. Then painted the fan a light gray and sleeved the wires with green sleeving.

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INSTALLING WIN7 ULTIMATE)

Un defecto (?) de la placa es que no tiene un conector IDE y mi quemador de DVD es de IDE :smils06:
A defect (?) of the mobo is that it does not have a connector for IDEs and my DVD burner is still IDE.  :blink:

Me acorde que la vez pasada que vino mi hijo, pedí un adaptador IDE a SATA que me costo como $15usd. Aunque intente un par de días, no pude hacer que booteara de un flash drive usb porque las opciones para arranque son: usb fdd, usb cd rom y usb hdd. En ningún de los casos pude hacerlo bootear!  Alguien lo ha conseguido?  Pero gracias al adaptador, pude usar un DVD con el SO para instalar a la manera clásica.
However, I did remember that the last time my son came down, he brought me an IDE to SATA adapter/converter I had ordered and that cost me $15usd. Although I gave it my best for a couple of days, I could not boot of a flash drive because the boot options for the mobo are: usb fdd, usb cdrom and usb hdd. In all cases the install would not boot in! Has anyone had any luck? Anyways, thanks to the adapter/converter, I used a DVD to make a classical OS install.

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Hora de cerra la tapa lateral finalmente, después de acomodar los cables un poco. Si tuviera mas tiempo, haría una caja central para todo el cablerio y así eliminar la maraña de conectores molex.  También, hora de meter la tarjeta de vídeo. Cupo como Dios mando--perfectamente!  El inconveniente: NO CIERRA LA TAPA LATERAL POR EL VENTILADOR!!!! :smils9:  :smils3:  :smils02  :smils05:  :smils04:  :smils00:
After cleaning up the wiring as much as I could (crap load of molexs), it was time to close the fan side panel (I thought) after inserting the video card which fit thank goodness! The only bummer:  THE SIDE PANEL FAN WOULD SCRAPE AGAINST THE VIDEO CARD! :glare:  :this:  roll  :cry:  :blush:

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Faltantes: Pintura de arte de lata y sticker con logo NMC para el venti grande. Por lo visto, voy a tener que quitar el GPU externo y usar el interno, blehhhh!!!!
Missing yet: spray can art for the other side (menu holder), the NMC logo sticker for the side fan and print my PBR sticker.  Also from what I can see, I will have to remove the external gpu and use the internal gpu, blehhh!!!


Saludos

M de O Usada: 17 h.
$ Inv.:  -0-
--------------------
Acc M de O: 180 h
Acc. $: $996mn=$76.06usd


I am up to date with this post.


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#16 2010-04-03 15:53:15

Papang
Member
From: Cancun, Q. Roo/Mexico
Registered: 2009-10-26
Posts: 34

Re: Phosphor 2010 Mexico

Well, I sort of got forced to tinker with the insides again. This is to clean up the molex mess I had. I had not thought that it was that bad since I did a little cable management and stuck most of them into a corner. Why? Because this guy gave me an example of a clean inside,and  yes it is Dillusional’s idea:

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So… I pulled out a terminal I had from a previous project that I did not get to use. I got this at Steren, a local electronics shop for a measly $8.00mn or $0.77usd.

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However, when I tested it with my volt-amp meter, it was not what I thought it was and Steren did not have anything else.  It is basically a pass-through terminal with each terminal independent of each other so I had to mod where I did not want to! Anyways nothing out of this world but it did suck up time.

DSCI0003-2.jpg

What took a while was to cut of the molex’s without messing with the detour lines to the switches. Once cut off, man did it take time to stick them into the tiny terminals and screwing them in place-the wires are so thin and the cramped space inside the case did not help.

Before:

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and later:

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A lot better, no? No not really but I did manage to get rid of all the molexes except for the 3 coming form the front cover so that it will be faster to take it off in the future. Now the problem is the cables coming out of the psu which were not used anymore. There is no empty bay to stuff them into so I did as best as I could to tuck them away.

Time to move on to printing the PBR logo sticker now that my printer is “fixed”. I duly printed in adhesive backed paper so next is to see how to protect it.  The previous sample was painted with clear acrylic to see if that did the trick, but no. The paints gets sucked into the paper and dulls and darkens the inkjet colors so out it went. I ran off to Office Depot and got a clear adhesive plastic that although cost $10.00mn ($0,77 usd) was a bunch. Putting it over my new sticker did the trick and is now safe from wear and tear.

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Below the plastic coated sticker and below the darker painted sticker:

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Unless anything pops up, I am down to the spray can art, hehe.

M Hours Used: 6 h.
$ Invested: $10.00mn=$0.77usd
--------------------------------------
Acc. M Hrs.: 186 h.
Acc $: $1,006mn=$76.83usd

Saludos and Cheers and Mod on!


Kick butt both ways: at the office and at home with Papang BizRigs!


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